Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers
Natalie K. Gilmore, Peter Klimek, Emil Abrahamsson, Keith Baar · 2024
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Description
Natalie Gilmore and co-authors compare finger training plans for rock climbers in 2024. Climbing loads the fingers hard, and many climbers use a hangboard to build grip strength. The standard plan uses brief hangs at full effort. A newer plan uses ten minutes of gentle, low-load hangs.
The team mined records from a training app, grouping climbers by the plan they logged over weeks. The gentle plan built grip strength just as well as the max-effort plan. Climbers who mixed both plans gained even more. The authors say the soft approach is a kind option that fits into normal training, which may help climbers train often without strain.
Catalog record
| CREATOR | Natalie K. Gilmore, Peter Klimek, Emil Abrahamsson, Keith Baar |
|---|---|
| YEAR | 2024 |
| COLLECTION | PAPERS |
| FORMAT | TXT |
| FILE SIZE | 39 KB |
| VERSION | 1.0 |
| LICENSE | CC BY 4.0 |
| RIGHTS | CC BY |
| SOURCE | Europe PMC |